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The Closest Thing to Walking on Water in the Desert

Posted on February 24, 2025   |   Updated on September 30, 2025
Rob Kachelriess

Rob Kachelriess

A bench in front of a lake.

Take a seat. (Rob Kachelriess/City Cast Las Vegas)

If you’ve ever driven between Las Vegas and Ely, it’s hard to miss the Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge alongside U.S. Route 93 — or as I prefer to call it, the Great Basin Highway. The 5,380-acre park is about 90 miles north of Vegas, near the tiny town of Alamo, offering a moment of serenity and natural beauty to break up the monotony of any road trip.

🌳 The Lay of the Land

The Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge includes nearly 640 acres of open water, fed by the Crystal and Ash Springs. While there are about four miles of distance between the two main lakes, both are connected by a thin stream. Walking trails pass by foothills, desert foliage, marshes, and towering cottonwood trees. Rock formations reveal evidence of a river that once ran through the valley.

⛰️ Long History

The refuge was established in 1963 and is run by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service today, but its legacy dates back centuries. The Southern Paiute have a strong connection to the Pahranagat Valley, holding reverence for both its beauty and resources over thousands of years, leaving behind petroglyphs on black canyon rock. Before Alamo was developed by Arizona settlers in the early 1900s, the Pahranagat Valley was a popular hideout for horse thieves in the 1850s.

A dike stretched across a lake.

Walking on water. (Rob Kachelriess/City Cast Las Vegas)

🐦 A Sanctuary for Birds

The refuge welcomes more than 250 bird species throughout the year, and is a breeding habitat for at least 90 of them. It’s essentially a travel stop for winged creatures traveling the Pacific Flyway during the spring and fall migration seasons. On rare occasions, you may even spot a bald eagle. Closer to the ground, it’s not uncommon to see black-tailed jackrabbits, mule deer, and spiny lizards.

🎣Things To Do

Driving near the water on a quiet, dust-covered road has its charm. Pull over and explore a few trails, including one that runs across a low dyke that separates the north lake. It’s almost like walking on water. Go fishing for bullhead catfish, largemouth bass, or carp (an invasive species whose presence has been dramatically reduced in recent years). Bare bones camping sites are available on a first-come, first-serve basis. Stay the night or stay 15 minutes. Either way, the Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge is a calming distraction from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

  • Continue driving north and you’ll make it to Ely, where you can ride a vintage train and explore the rugged charm of an old mountainside mining community. [Hey Las Vegas ✍️]

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