Two years ago, I drove to Tecopa for the first time, and my journey was about as rocky as it gets. Fueled by a full tank of gas and a 16-ounce energy drink, I made an abrupt turn off Highway 160, bypassed Pahrump, and sped through the desert on the Old Spanish Trail – a decision that immediately prompted questions like "Is this really a public road?" and "Do I still want to do this?"
After cruising by the beautiful St. Therese Mission church, I began to trust my GPS again and made it across the bumpy Nopah mountain range, reaching "Downtown Tecopa" and its population of roughly 200 people. No cell phone service? No problem. My day trip included stops at the China Ranch Date Farm, Death Valley Brewing, and Steaks & Beer, an intimate restaurant whose name is the menu.
Above all, the tiny California town is best known for the Tecopa Hot Springs, among the most pure and mineral-rich in the world. Delight's Hot Springs Resort and the Tecopa Hot Springs Resort have temperature-controlled dipping pools to enjoy the geothermal waters, but another option doesn't cost a dime.
The "Mudhole" is about a half-mile north of Delight's on Tecopa Hot Springs Road. Just look for a slight bend in the highway and more often than not, a car or two already parked off the pavement. A short walk east leads to a natural pool (or one created by some sort of drilling mishap, if you believe local legend), simmering at 95-103 F, according to the Ultimate Hot Springs Guide.
Some wear bathing suits. Some go nude. We call it "European style." Don't gawk and it's not a big deal. Take a dip and feel free to dig your hands in the mud and cake it over your body for real or perceived homeopathic benefits. Either way, bring extra towels.
Spring is ideal for visiting Tecopa, which shuts down in summer due to an unholy alliance between bugs and hot weather. Take the long way through Pahrump and avoid the hills – if you really want to. Your mudhole awaits.
